Patio Console Table

Today I am happy to share a fun “double” repurposed project with you…

My newly built Tall Patio Console Table!

White-framed console table with a reclaimed wood slat top in blue, green, and natural hues, set against a red brick wall on a paved patio.

I love it! “Double” repurposed you ask? Well, yes. The pallet wood on the top of this table used to be on a coffee table that I repurposed many years ago…

Rustic wooden coffee table with reclaimed wood slats in a cozy living room, featuring a black leather couch, a turquoise side table, and a resting brown dog

Super fun right!? I loved it, but when my son jumped on it and broke the frame, sadly I had to trash it. But…I saved the pallet wood to use on a different project in the future. That day has finally come, folks!

Reclaimed wood planks with faded blue, green, and white paint laid out on a table outdoors, prepared for a DIY woodworking project. A wooden porch and a yard with dried grass are in the background.

A woman measuring and marking reclaimed wood planks on a table outdoors using a tape measure and a straight edge. The wood has a rustic, weathered look with faded blue, green, and white paint. A wooden porch and a trampoline are in the background.

I have been SLOWLY working on my back patio, and I realized that this pallet wood would be perfect for the top to a console table. I installed a projector screen on the porch and we needed a spot to place the projector behind the patio furniture, so I set to work.

How to build a Tall Patio Console Table

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Step 1: Measure your Space and determine the length, height and width of your table.

I measured the spot behind the patio furniture and determined roughly how long I wanted the table. Then I measured the space behind the furniture and figured out roughly how wide or deep to build it. Lastly, I measured the top of the patio furniture and made it several inches higher so the projector would clear any heads sitting in front of it. 😉

I also determined that I would spend zero dollars on this project, which meant in addition to using the repurposed pallet wood, I would need to use some scrap lumber I had laying around to build the table base. So I did some measuring of the pallet wood and scrap lumber to help determine the final size of the table.

Step 2: Cut wood pieces to size

Person using a DeWalt miter saw in a woodworking workshop, with a stop block clamped for precision cutting. A shop vacuum is positioned under the saw for dust collection.

Close-up of a miter saw cutting a 2x4 board, with a stop block clamped in place for consistent cuts. The saw is set up in a woodworking workshop with sawdust and tools in the background.

Once you determine your measurements for your table, it is time to cut all your pieces to size. For multiple pieces that are the same size I like to save time measuring and use a stop block of scrap wood (middle photo) that I clamp to my miter saw. I cut my 4 rail pieces that will be connected to the legs to this length as well as the support pieces that will go in the table frame. This is a fast way to get them cut and all the exact same size.

Step 3: Drill Pocket holes and sand

Woman drilling pocket holes into a wooden board using a blue Kreg jig on a workbench.

Woman using a yellow power sander to smooth a wooden block on an outdoor table, with pre-cut wood pieces and a shed in the background.

Once all my pieces for the table frame were cut, I drilled pocket holes into the rails and support pieces for building the frame. Then I sanded all the pieces before building. I also created a stop for the pallet boards and cut them to size for the top of the table.

Step 4: Build table frame

A woodworking project in progress on a kitchen island, with wooden boards clamped together using bar clamps. A Ryobi cordless drill is being used to drive screws into the frame. The workspace includes a measuring tape, screws, and extra wood pieces, with a kitchen setting in the background.

A woman using a Ryobi cordless tool to sand or smooth wooden boards clamped to a kitchen island. A drill and other tools are on the counter. The kitchen has wooden cabinets, stainless steel appliances, and a beige countertop.

I started by building both sides of the table base by attaching the top rail and bottom rail between the leg pieces. I used 2 1/2” pocket hole screws, since I was using 2×3 lumber. I did the top rail flush to the top of the legs and then picked a random height for the lower rail support. I ended up using my right angle drill to add the pocket hole screws, this is not easy, in such a tight space. I would recommend pre drilling from the outside of the leg into the rails with 2 1/2” screws. However, I am stubborn, and since I had already drilled pocket holes I was determined to use them. Good grief!

A woman kneeling on a patterned rug while assembling a large wooden frame. She is using a cordless drill to secure the structure. A bag of screws is nearby, with a couch and wooden flooring in the background.

I added the long rails to connect the side pieces on one side, then I flipped it over and added the other side.

Ta da!! An instant table base…so fun! Now you have to remember that when you work with scrap wood, chances are you are not going to have straight boards. My leg pieces were pretty warped. I knew this would cause imperfections in the build, but I was ok with that because most people won’t notice, it is for my patio, and I built this for…FREE!! Totally worth it, in my book. 😉

Step 5: Add support pieces and bottom shelf

Collage of three images showing a woman building a wooden table frame outdoors and in a workshop, using a drill and a Ryobi nail gun.

I added support pieces to the top of the table. For the bottom I was going to leave it and then at the last minute I thought it would be fun to add a shelf, so I added some 1×3 support boards and used some scrap chipboard to make an inset lower shelf. I simple cut the chip board to fit the opening and then nailed it to the support boards with 5/8″ nails.

Remember when I said I was using warped scrap wood? Well these 2×3 furring strips ended up splitting on one side when I nailed the chip board shelf on. I flipped the table over to access the damage. I quickly realized that I could fix the problem by anchoring the support board into the 2×3 side boards and the legs on each side. I pre-drilled two holes in each side at a steep angle and then drilled in 2 inch self tapping screws. This baby is nice and sturdy now, problem solved! Phew!

Step 5: Prep for paint/stain for table base

Woman kneeling while applying wood filler or caulk to the lower shelf of a wooden table frame in a home workspace with a kitchen in the background.

Woman kneeling while painting the lower shelf of a wooden table frame in an indoor workspace with a kitchen in the background.

I filled the edges of the bottom shelf with caulk so it was ready for painting. Then I did all the edging for the paint and rolled the rest of the paint on with a foam roller.

Step 6: Add Pallet boards for table top

Woman arranging reclaimed wood planks on a white table frame in a bright indoor workspace, preparing for a DIY furniture project.

Woman using a Ryobi nail gun to attach reclaimed wood planks to a white table frame in a well-lit indoor workspace.

Because my pallet boards were repurposed and I wanted to keep the same finish, I just arranged them on the top how I wanted them and then nailed them to the top frame with 2” finish nails. Done!